Enzymatically interesterified fats based on mutton tallow and walnut oil suitable for cosmetic emulsions.

Published on Feb 1, 2015in International Journal of Cosmetic Science1.481
· DOI :10.1111/ICS.12173
M. Kowalska1
Estimated H-index: 1
M. Mendrycka1
Estimated H-index: 1
+ 1 AuthorsS. Stawarz1
Estimated H-index: 1
Synopsis Objective Formation of emulsion systems based on interesterified fats was the objective of the study. Enzymatic interesterification was carried out between enzymatic mutton tallow and walnut oil in the proportions 2 : 3 (w/w) to produce fats not available in nature. At the beginning of the interesterification process, the balance between the interesterification and fat hydrolysis was intentionally disturbed by adding more water to the catalyst (Lipozyme IR MR) of the reaction to produce more of the polar fraction monoacylglycerols [MAGs] and diacylglycerols [DAGs]. To obtain a greater quantity of MAGs and DAGs in the reaction environment via hydrolysis, water was added (11, 13, 14, 16 w-%) to the enzymatic preparation. The obtained fats were used to form emulsions. Methods The emulsions were evaluated with respect to sensory and skin moisturizing properties by 83 respondents. Determination of emulsion stability using temperature and centrifugal tests was carried out. Morphology and the type of emulsions were determined. Results The respondents described the skin to which the emulsions in testing were applied as smooth, pleasant to touch and adequately moisturized. Conclusions The work has demonstrated that interesterification of a mutton tallow and walnut oil blend resulted in new fats with very interesting characteristics of triacylglycerols that are not present in the environment. The results of the present work indicate the possibility of application of fats with the largest quantity of MAGs and DAGs as a fat base of emulsions in the cosmetic industries. The hypothesis assumed in this work of producing additional quantities of MAGs and DAGs (in the process of enzymatic interesterification) responsible for the stability of the system was confirmed. It should be pointed out that the emulsions based on interesterified fats exhibited a greater level of moisturization of the skin than the emulsions containing non-interesterified fat. Also, in the respondents' opinion, the emulsion containing fat, which was modified during enzymatic interesterification when 13% of water was added to the enzymatic preparation, exhibited the best sensory profile. Resume Objectif La formation des systemes d'emulsion a base de lipides transesterifies etait l'objectif de l'etude. L'esterification enzymatique a ete realisee entre le suif de mouton et l'huile de noix dans les proportions 2: 3 (poids / poids) pour produire des lipides qui ne sont pas disponibles dans la nature. Au debut du processus de transesterification, l'equilibre entre la transesterification et l'hydrolyse des lipides a ete volontairement perturbee par l'ajout d'eau pour le catalyseur (Lipozyme IR MR) de la reaction en vue de produire davantage de fractions polaires monoacylglycerols [MAG] et diacylglycerols (DAG). Pour obtenir une plus grande quantite de MAG et de DAG dans le milieu de reaction par hydrolyse, de l'eau a ete ajoutee (11, 13, 14, 16% en poids) de la preparation enzymatique. Les corps gras obtenus ont ete utilises pour former des emulsions. Methodes Les emulsions ont ete evaluees par rapport aux proprietes hydratantes et sensorielles par 83 repondants. La determination de la stabilite de l'emulsion en fonction de la temperature et les essais d'etalement ont ete effectues. La morphologie et le type d'emulsions ont ete determines. Resultats Les volontaires ont decrit la peau sur laquelle les emulsions des tests ont ete appliquees comme lisse, agreable au toucher et hydratee convenablement. Conclusions Le travail a demontre que l'esterification d'un melange d'huile de suif de mouton et de l'huile de noix aboutit a de nouvelles lipides avec des caracteristiques tres interessantes de triglycerides qui ne sont pas presents dans l'environnement. Les resultats de la presente etude indiquent la possibilite de l'application de lipides avec des plus grandes quantites de MAG et DAG comme base de lipide d'emulsions dans les industries cosmetiques. L'hypothese supposee de ce travail, a savoir de produire des quantites supplementaires de DAG et MAG (dans le processus d'inter-esterification enzymatique) responsables de la stabilite du systeme a ete confirmee. Il convient de souligner que les emulsions a base de graisses inter-esterifiees presentaient un plus grand niveau d'hydratation de la peau que les emulsions contenant des matieres grasses non-esterifiees. Aussi, de l'avis des repondants, l'emulsion contenant de la graisse qui a ete modifiee au cours de transesterification enzymatique quand 13% de l'eau a ete ajoutee a la preparation enzymatique, presentait le meilleur profil sensoriel.
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